Shirt



J y 1953 E. RINEHART ETAL 2,646,570

SHIRT Filed Feb. 24, 1951 Patented July 2 8, 1953 Ernestine Rinehart andAlan Rineliart,

New York, N. Y.

Application February 24, 1951, Serial No. 212,612

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in mens shirts andrelates more particularly to an improved tie-supporting arrangementassociated with the collar structure.

' The shirt of the present invention is designed especially for use inconnection with the novel four-in-hand' necktie described in Patent No.2,545,971 of March 20; 1951. This necktie, when tied, resembles theusual four-in-hand necktie although it does not encircle the neck of thewearer but rather is supported on a bar extending across the frontcollarsection of the shirt and is secured at each end beneath the outer wall Iof the-collar. The necktie differs from the usual four-in-hand tie inthat when it is lying flat, on a table, for instance, the front surfaceof the front section and the rear face of the rear section face in thesame direction. Accordingly, when the necktie is draped over thetie-supporting' bar both front faces face forwardly and the necktie isthen tied in the usual manner.

Severalspecies of one specific type of tie-supporting bar especiallyadapted for sport shirts are disclosed in our application Serial No.188,284, filed October 4, 1950, and the improved bar of the presentinvention has specia1 application to dress shirts and it is also suitedfor sport-shirts.

The bar is formed with a loop or opening at its free end which engages abutton on the opposite side of the shirt and serves the dual purpose ofclosing the collar section and also supporting the necktie. Thus, animportant object of the invention is to provide a bar of this characterso attached to the shirt at its inner end as to plac the tension on thestrongest part of the tear the shirt and collar and to break thestitchesused to receive it.

M To this end the collar is formed of double thickness, usually with aliner between the layers, and this two or three layer structure isstitched to the upper end of theshirt. At one side at the front of thecollar structure the latter is formed along its inner longitudinal edgewith a projection which extends below this stitch line and is concealedbetween the shirt front and the marginal facing 3 Claims. (01. 2-l16) toits rear. The bar is secured to this extension and passes freely througha finished button'hole in the shirt front just below the collar stitchline. Accordingly as the bar is subjected to moreorto less tension itexerts no tugging on the shirt front because of this sliding relationbetween thebar and the shirt front opening and thus does not causewrinkles in theshirt front. It permits of.

easy manufacture since the bar issecured to the collar section beforethe latter is attached to the shirt. It also permits easy replacementfrom in-- side the shirt front if the bar should wear out before theshirt.

The more modern type of dress shirt has a considerably lower collar bandin the front than do the older types of shirts and the result of thislower collar band structure is considerably to increase the comfort ofthe wearer. The desire has been to reduce the height of the front collarband section as much as possible but with existing types of dress shirtsit cannot be eliminated completely because of the necessity of a buttonand buttonhole arrangement for securing the upper edges of the shirtfront together. A shirt constructedin accordance with the presentinvention permits the front collar band section as such to be eliminatedcompletely and the shirt is secured together at its upper ends by thenovel bar of the present invention which as aforesaid is secured to theprojection of the collar along its inner longitudinal edge, theprojection lying below the stitch,

' of attachment to the collar but it is supported in such a fashion asto exert no tension either on the collar per se or upon the shirt front.

In the drawing: Fig. 1 is a broken front elevation of a shirtconstructed in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a similar view but with the front sections of the shirtun'buttoned and the collar turned upwardly;

Fig. 3 is a front elevation of the upper endzof the shirtfully openedand lying substantially flat; Fig. 4 is a broken elevation of the collarbefore the same has been attached to th shirt;

Fig. 5 is a broken section taken on line.5-5 of The shirt of the presentinvention includes a' body enclosing portion provided with plural frontsections In and H. in the margin l2 of section ID are spaced buttons. l3which engage button holes I4 in the margin l5 of section II, whichmargin overlies margin 12 of section when the shirt is buttoned. Thebutton and button-hole arrangement is suggestive only and any otherfastening means may be employed. The construction of the sleeves (notshown) forms no part of the present invention. The inner surface ofsection [0 is provided with a facing l6 and the margin of section I l isformed with a similar inner facing I1. This facing may constitute aseparate blank appropriately stitched to the marginal edge of the outersection or it may be formed by folding back such marginal edge.

The upper end of the shirt at the collar section is defined by line 2|.The collar 22 is of the usual double thickness and is formed from aninner blank 23 and an outer blank 24 whose lower edges are inwardlyturned and suitably stitched together to form a lower external edge 25.The contour of the opposed front edges 26 of the collar leading to thepoints is, of course, a matter of styling.

The upper edges of the front section of the shirt are faceddownwardlyasshown at 21 and the upper edge 28 of inner facing I1 issimilarly formed as shown in Fig. 5. The lower edges 3| and 320i outerand inner collar blanks 24 and 23 at this point extend below stitch line33 which joins the collar to the shirt and between the collar blanks areinforcing liner 315 may be disposed. The lower edge of the latter isgenerally coextensive with the lower edges of the collar blanks. Theupper edge of the liner is shown at 31 and usually is of curved contour.The line 4| in Fig. 3 shows the approximate fold line of the collar.

Collar blanks 23 and 24 are of usual construction except that they areformed with a short lower extension or projection 42 on the right handside when viewed as in Figs. 2 and 3. These lower extensions provideample supporting means for the inner terminal of the supporting bar 43formed preferably from a fabric covered elastic cord doubled upon itselfat 44 to form a loop which receives a button 45 on front shirt sectionID. The free ends 46 of the bar are aligned and are secured by stitches41 to extensions 42 which, as aforesaid, lie below stitch line 33 in thefinished shirt.

It will be noted from an examination of Fig. 5 that the collar sectionat this point includes the inner and outer collar blanks 24 and 23 andliner 35. It is preferred to limit the height of turned down edges 21and 28 substantially to the extent shown in Fig. 5 so that the stitches41 which secure the bar to the projection 42 pass ished with the barattached as shown in Fig. 4,

before it is stitched to the shirt.

Since the tension onthe button 45 is the same as the tension on theinner end of the bar it is also well to form the opposite ends of thecollar blanks with downward projections 49 to provide a firm anchoragefor the button.

It will be noted that the margin I5 is somewhat wider and accordinglyoverlies a wider portion of margin [2 than is found in the older typesof dress shirts. In this construction the bar is stitched at 5! at theedge of the margin and thus when the shirt is opened at the top the tiedoes not fall off the bar and the knot remains intact. If, however,margin [5 is somewhat narrower, this attachment at 5| may be omitted.The second button at 52 enables the shirt to be loosened at the collarfor occasional comfort.

In the modified arrangement of Fig. 6 the shirt body includes frontsections 60 and El, the margin of the former having buttons 62 and themargin of the latter having button holes 63. The upper ends of therespective marginal edges are cut back in tapering fashion as shown at64 and 65. The bar 66 with loop 61 is secured to the projection of thecollar blanks and liner as in the first embodiment and passes freelythrough button hole 68. The attaching button is shown at 10.

This form also illustrates the narrower overlyin margins previouslydescribed and absence of any need for stitching the outer end of the barto edge 65.

While two forms or'embodiments of the invenprovided with overlying frontmargins and anv upperannular edge enclosing the neck section of thewearer, and a collar formed with inner and outer longitudinal edges, thelatter edge overlying the upper section of the shirt, and the formeredge being secured by a line of stitching to said upper annular edge,the collar being formed at opposite ends with projections extendingbelow the line of attachment and which are disposed to the rear of saidmargins, a bar extending at its outer end toward the front of the shirt,such outer end having an opening and being secured at its inner end toone of said projections, the shirt front adjacent the projection havingan opening through which the bar extends, and a button secured to theother projection for attachment by the free end of the bar.

2. A shirt including a body enclosing portion provided with overlyingfront margins and an upper annular edge enclosing the neck section ofthe wearer, and a collar formed with inner and outer longitudinal edges,the latter edge overlying the upper section of the shirt, and the formeredge being secured by a line of stitching to said upper annular edge,the collar being formed at one end thereof with a projection extion, theshirt front adjacent the projection hav-- ing an opening through whichthe bar extends, the opening'being of such dimensions as to permit freesliding movement of the bar relative to the opening as tension on thebar increases and diminishes, and a button on the opposite side of theshirt under the collar for attachment by the bar. 7

3. A shirt including a body enclosing portion provided with overlyingfront margins and an upper annular edge enclosing the neck section ofthe wearer, and a collar formed with inner and outer longitudinal edges,the latter edge normally overlying the upper section of the shirt, andthe former edge being secured by a line of stitching to said upperannular edge, the inner longitudinal edge of the collar being formedadjacent opposite ends thereof with projections which extend below saidline of stitching, a bar extending at its outer end toward the front ofthe shirt, said outer end having a button receiving opening, the innerend of said bar being secured by stitches to one side of the shirt frontbelow said line of stitching, said stitches extend- References Cited inthe file of this patent 10 UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 64,867Hess May 21, 1867 236,720 Reynolds et al. Jan. 18, 1881 946,275 RuebeJan. 11, 1910 1,361,559 Wiberley Dec. ,7, 1920 1,841,760 Miller July 14,1931,

2,079,980 Anders May 11, 1937" 2,545,971 Rinehart Mar. 20, 1951 202,551,863 Young May 8, 1951

